The conversation goes like this:
Nadine: "Excuse me, do you speak English?"
Stranger: "Yes"
Nadine: "Oh good, do you know where the post office is?"
Stranger: "Yes"
(wait for answer)
Nadine: "Could you tell me where the post office is?"
Stranger: "Yes"
Nadine: "Okay, so where is it?"
Stranger: "Yes"

I have come to learn that the word "yes" has many meanings such as:
I understand
I acknowledge you are standing in front of me and moving your lips
No

Imagine how frustrating this is at work.

On the other hand, there are many ways to say "no" in Japanese, none of which include the word no. Some of these are:
I see
It is difficult
Why do you ask me that?
Perhaps you would prefer...
Yes, but...
Silence
Hesitation
Yes

For a country with no natural resources, you may wonder how the Japanese have come to have the highest GDP per capita and the second largest economy in the world.

The simple answer is: they work harder… and more.

According to one study I read, 12 hours more per week than the average American and 16 hours than the average Swede.

Work is taken very, very seriously in Japan. They are diligent about doing their jobs no matter how menial. Take the Elevator Ladies, for example. Their job is to wear a cute pink uniform with white gloves and cap, greet you, push the button, announce the floor, and show you the way on to and off of the elevator all while acting as if they are soooo happy that you decided to take their elevator. Really.

One of the most important aspects of Japanese work life is the name card (business card). You simply do not exist as a person without it. Cards are presented with two hands, text right side up to the recipient, and treated as delicately and respectfully as a newborn baby.

People often comment to me that it must be hard to be a working women in Japan with the prevalence of male chauvinism, but this has not really been my experience. I feel I fall under the category of gaijin (foreigner) not woman. In fact, a study by social psychologists found that foreign women working in Japan were successful because they were viewed as foreign and not as women.

Westerners can often rise quickly to the top at work, for those willing to make decisions, take risks, be a leader. Effectively brainwashed into following orders without question, the Japanese at work do as I tell them, exactly as I tell them. A power rush for sure. Until you realize that if you are in charge everything is also your fault if you were involved or not.

On my first visit to Tokyo I came looking for an exotic Asian city of palaces, temples, zen gardens... but found possibly the ugliest city in the world.

Fires, earthquakes, wars combined with Japanese abhorrence of history have eliminated most monuments. Instead you will find an abundance of exposed electrical lines, concrete monstrosities, blinding advertisements, and multilevel expressways.

Zero concessions to city planning, the same roads and passageways that were designed to befuddle invading enemies in feudal times were kept in tact. And, most with no street names -- addresses are based on a district numbering system that know nothing of logic.

Tokyo has no real center or downtown, but is made up of a series of neighborhoods that are referred to as cities. Shibuya, for one, is larger than Dublin. Urban sprawl gone amok.

Yet, even with no street names, no planning, and the "visual pollution" everywhere, the city functions shockingly well in an organized chaos sort of way. You can set your watch to the subway schedules.

Some call Tokyo the most authentically artificial place you can go.

#10. Any immoral or unruly behavior will not be tolerated.

- from "rules to be observed when using the pool and surrounding area" posted at my apartment building.

Another great one at the subway: "any behavior that might inconvenience another person is not allowed."

Might inconvenience someone? That kind of covers a lot.

In fact, the Japanese are in general polite and courteous, passive, helpful. Considering Tokyo is nearly triple the population of NYC, I guess people have to be nice to each other.

I am quickly getting settled here. The subways are efficient; the air is dirty. Glass façade skyscrapers boarder shacks. The food is delicious. A melon costs $35 (but they wrap it really nicely!) Someone described Tokyo as a third world city tied up in a first world bow. I see what they mean.

My visa has come through making me “legal.” I've started work at WestLB, a German Bank, which I love. I’m doing corporate communications (since I am the only one in the group I guess it makes me head, right?). I handle developing a new corporate identity, the website, events, and PR. I currently sit in the boss’s massive office while he is on vacation. His secretary organizes my meetings.

Archives